Valle De La Luna

It was on the return ride from Tatio geysers that I got talking to William, a gardener at Kennsington palace, who was quite nutty about volcanoes. I agreed with him that I would like to try to climb one. Try being the right word for all are well over 5000m and this is the highest I have ever achieved (whilst at Everest in Tibet).

I wanted to try Lascar, the most active in the range, whose smoke was visible each morning. The volcano climbing agency agreed Lascar was a good one to try as the ascent is just 800m and the climb not techical. The problem was altitude, and no one can predict how a body will react to that.

Over breakfast I met Jamie from the Cotwolds, and told him of our ascent plans. He wanted to try to. So that day Jamie, William and I got to know each other better on a cycle rid out to the so called Valley of the Moon, where everybody heads at least once during their stay in San Pedro, to view the sunset over the lunar rocks and volcanoes beyound.

Hot & Cold

Using the same agency, the next day was an early start to catch the sunrise over the Tatio geyser field. It was totally freezing up there in the dawn glow, but magical all the same. Steam and hot water billows from the many geysers located here. Supposedly the highest in the world.









Nearby a thermal water swimming pool has been created to enable us hardy souls to swim at 4300 metres. The water was gorgeously warm, and in places very very hot. Getting dry in the frigid air though was not so much fun.



On the return ride back to San Pedro, we frequently came across herds of Vicuñas. Here watering themselves by a frozen stream.







Everytime we passed animals or interesting views we would get out of our transport and explore. An early morning become a long but very enjoyable day.

Another planet

San Pedro is one of those backpacker paradises. It just really exists to serve the passing tourists, so is full of hostels, hotels, restaurants and tour agencies. I had heard of a reconmmended agency and checked them out. All agencies run the same or similar tours so it's difficult to pick one, but the recommended one started it's tour to the two lakes under the high volcanoes earlier than others and returned later than others. So I signed up with them.

At 7.30 us gringos set out first to the Salar De Atacama, the largest in Chile. This Salar is not pure white like many others but a dirty brown colour, owing to the various mierals contained in it. Within the salar are brine lakes which attract many birds, including three types of flamingo, and as below matelots.







We had a hearty breakfast after looking out at the birds and changing morning light before heading off towards the high volcanoes to the east of the salar. First stop was Socaire with it pretty little Andino church.



Climbing higher and higher, up to well over 4000m we reached the twin Lagunas
Miscanti and Miñeques, sheltering under there respective volkcanic cones. The waters were deep blue and surrounded by salt crusted shores





Returning down to the salar, after walking around the lakes and taking a very chilly windy outdoor lunch, we stopped at the point on an old Incan road where the tropic of capricorn is marked.



Our guide decided it would be right for us to wait for the red sunset over the line of volcanoes. We were back in San Pedro even later than planned. A very good agency indeed, and a beautiful day in some very different scenery.

Stowaway 4

Hey it's me again. Been keeping a low profile in Argentina, due to doggy shootings. Not much going on there I gotta say for us four legged backpackers. Did chase a llama but it spat at me and so I had to stop to get the goo outa my eye.

Happy to say I'm now in doggy heaven AKA Chile. AND I gotta mate. Meet Tigger from London. He stowed away too and has been to Vietnam, China, New Zealand and loads of other places. He doesn't like biting wildlife as he says will all his bouncing around everything keeps running off.

Here us up at 4200 metres, kept the woofs to a minimum, as needed to keep my breath to stay alive. Looks like snow doesn't it. But it's salt! Yuk! Not worth playing in!



Next day me and Tiggs went to some steamy place. It was mighty cold up there early in the morning. So we decided to warm up by this sort of teapot thing in the ground.



WOOF!

3 collapse in border incident!

Have arrived back in Chile. I am in the tourist wonderland (read dusty town) of San Pedro De Atacama, the norte grande region.

The journey from Salta, Argentina, took 10 hours. Headed over the Paso De Jama, across the salt lake decked altiplano, passing many volcanoes on the way. A totally weird, arid landscape.

The Argentinian border is at 4100 netres up. Here three of our bus passengers collasped due to the altitude, and needed oxygen to bring them back to life! They survived I am pleased to report.

Heading off tomorrow to look at multi coloured lakes, flamingos, and volcanoes.

Village in the canyon

Friday afternoon I hopped on the bus up to Humahuaca. Only a 5 hour journey, but I am getting used to the long bus rides in this the eighth largest country in the world, and the express busses are really comfortable.

I overnighted in Humahuaca in exactly the same place I was in just two weeks ago. Had llama stew for supper.

Early the next morning I took the 3 hour battered old bus to Iruya. The road there is a rough dirt track, and stops at Iruya, as it can go no further. The first half of the journey was over rock strewn rounded mountains. The second half was the most stunning journey I think I have taken. From 4000m the bus hairpinned down the steep mountainside, heading towards the deep canyon, far below.



I do not think I have ever taken so many photos out of the moving bus window.

Reaching the canyon we followed the road high above the sheer river cliffs. One false move by the driver and it would have been curtains for all. The rocks here, as throughout this part of the Andes, are a riot of colour and texture. Cathedral like spires of grey rock, amongst splashes of red, pink and green.



Iruya is located at the end of the canyon, perched high on the cliff. It's church dominates the view. It has featured on many Argentinian calendars.



The village itself is tiny. Cobblestone streets, too narrow for cars, run up and down its steep slopes. Here donkeys carry the goods to restock the shops.



Really glad I opted to stay the night here, as it gave me time to explore the village and walk up and down the canyon.





Iruya has become one of my favourites so far on this trip. It is so remote, so timeless and so utterly beautiful. Despite the 8 hours of travel to reach it, I am so glad I did.

My guidebook says very little about it. Chris and Delfina encouraged me to visit. A big thanks to you both for doing so.

Appriendo Castellaño en Salta

I am now coming to the end of my time here in Salta. Have been here for close to two weeks learning as much Spanish as I possibly can from my very patient teacher, Rosanna.

To start with I didn't really like Salta that much. In particular the noisy fume filled streets put me off. But I have grown to like it.

The first week I spent in a hostal that sometimes felt like downtown Tel Aviv. This hostal is the one recommended by the Israeli gringo website. Israeli's, freshly released from three hard years in the army, are the only nationality group that forms homogenous packs. After a week in their den I had had enough, so moved three blocks away to another hostel full of world citizens.




The Spanish has been coming along slower than I had hoped. Think I expected some magic wand trick to enable me to talk confidently very quickly. Although I already knew a huge number of words and phrases, I did not have the grammar to build my own sentences. So this is what I have been learning for the past two weeks. I have now got to the future tenses and the numerous (and really difficult) past tenses.

My last lesson is on Monday morning. I then will get travelling again, as on Tuesday I take the bus over the Andes to Chile.



Salta has been fun. The best so far was last night when Delfina came to Salta in readiness for her return bus trip to Buenos Aires. We went out to a bar restaurant where clients just grab guitars and drums and off they go. The rythymns were amazing, with the classic latin clapping.

Heading to the hills again this weekend. I will go up to an area close to the Bolivian border, to stretch my legs, and do my Spanish homework.