I was trapped in not so beautiful Cochabamba for four days. In Bolivia one blockade can lead to another. Stranded passengers stuck as I was in Cochabamba decided to blockade the road outside the terminal to protest at the protests. Perhaps their action helped, as on the Thursday afternoon, the police moved in in classic South America style (meaning late) with tear gas and riot gear. It meant that Friday evening I could take an overnight bus up to La Paz.
Once in La Paz I jumped into a small bus heading to Copacobana on the shores of Lake Titicaca. I was planning to head directly from there into Peru (on the other side of the lake) but my runny nose decided I needed rest, so rest I did.
One the second night there a storm rolled in after sunset. It hailed, it thundered, and then it snowed! I thought back in the UK a storm like this would knock out the electricity. Then the lights went out!
The next day (still no electricity) I crossed over the nearby border post into Peru, and onwards to the town of Puno. It was strange to be in Puno as I had been there before. From Puno I took a bus down to Arequipa, Peru's second city.
Tuesday, 10 July 2007
Wednesday, 4 July 2007
Send Maggie Thatcher Over!
The miners are on strike and are blocking the roads between Cochabamba, La Paz and Oruro. So for the second day now I'm stuck in rather ugly Cochabamba. Send Maggie over, she´ll sort them out!
Here´s what the paper says:
Los mineros sindicalizados de la Empresa Minera Huanuni, que bloquean la carretera entre Oruro, La Paz y Cochabamba a la altura de las poblaciones de Caracollo y Cayhuasi, rechazaron ayer el diálogo con la comisión de Gobierno, exigieron la presencia del vicepresidente Álvaro García Linera y decidieron mantener la medida.
Entretanto, en las terminales de buses los viajeros pasan dificultades por el retraso para trasladarse a sus destinos y reclamaron porque hasta el cierre de esta edición no había una solución al conflicto.
El ministro de Minería, Alberto Echazú, informó que junto al ministro de Trabajo Walter Delgadillo, el viceministro de Coordinación con Movimiento Sociales, Sacha Llorenti, y el presidente de la Corporación Minera de Bolivia (Comibol), Hugo Miranda, fueron a Oruro para dialogar con los dirigentes mineros y resolver los problemas planteados en el voto resolutivo del sector y así poder garantizar el uso de las carreteras.
La comisión gubernamental permaneció durante toda la jornada en ambientes de la Prefectura de ese departamento y a través de diferentes medios convocaron a los mineros al diálogo, pero hasta anoche los trabajadores no se hicieron presentes por la condición de la asistencia del Vicepresidente.
Ante esta demanda, Delgadillo explicó que la comisión fue organizada y delegada por las máximas autoridades de Gobierno y que contaban con la autoridad suficiente para negociar con el sector movilizado.
La movilización minera tiene como principal demanda el reconocimiento y promulgación del Decreto Supremo 28901 con rango de ley, para de esa forma garantizar la reversión de la empresa Huanuni a dominio del Estado boliviano. También exigen el desembolso inmediato de 10 millones de dólares de los recursos comprometidos por el Gobierno, en octubre del pasado año, para consolidar la reactivación de aquel distrito minero.
Diálogo
Echazú dijo estar sorprendido por la reacción de los mineros, ya que las negociaciones estaban avanzadas aunque la pasada semana no pudo hacerse presente en el distrito de Huanuni debido a que era parte de una comisión en negociaciones del tema de El Mutún con la empresa india Jindal.
Mediante una carta enviada anoche a los dirigentes mineros y a la Central de Obrera Departamental (COD), la comisión de Gobierno manifestó que las relaciones con los trabajadores es de alianza estratégica y por tanto están predispuestos al diálogo que esperan pueda concretarse hoy.
Entretanto los mineros continuaban los bloqueos en Caracollo en la ruta hacia La Paz y Caihuasi en el camino a Cochabamba provocando la suspensión de viajes hacia dichas ciudades. Además, las actividades de extracción de estaño en los yacimientos del Posokoni están paralizadas, confirmó el secretario ejecutivo del Sindicato de Trabajadores Mineros de Huanuni, Miguel Pérez.
Potosí está aislado
Debido a los conflictos de la Universidad Tomás Frías, la capital potosina y otras ciudades intermedias como Tupiza, Villazón, Uncía y Uyuni estarán hoy cercadas por los bloqueos que desde ayer se cumplen en demanda de la reanudación de actividades académicas en esa casa superior de estudios.
La medida de presión no sólo la llevan adelante docentes y estudiantes de estas cuatro subsedes que tiene la universidad potosina en las provincias, sino también los docentes y estudiantes que se autoproclaman "autonomistas" de la capital y que se plegaron a esa medida radical.
El director de Seguridad Ciudadana, Eduardo Rivera, confirmó que en el puente de San Antonio en el tramo Potosí-Tarapaya existe una fracción de estudiantes y docentes de la Tomás Frías que proceden al bloqueo de ese camino. En el Cruce de Ventilla no hay bloqueo, dijo.
Lo contrario ocurre en el trayecto Potosí-Sucre donde existen dos puntos de bloqueo en los cruces a las poblaciones de Mojotorillo y Quivincha, donde por lo menos, hay unas 150 personas que ejecutan esa medida de presión que en la jornada de ayer fue casi infranqueable.
Rivera indicó que en las rutas a las provincias del sur, específicamente cerca de Villazón, en el retén de Matancillas hay un punto de bloqueo y en Tupiza en dos sectores: en Palala y en los accesos de la ciudad en la zona norte.
Or this from the local paper in Cochabamba:
Decenas de pasajeros permanecen en la Terminal por los bloqueos en la vía a La Paz
Muchas familias piden ayuda para sus hijos, no tienen dinero para pagar sus alimentos y alojamiento. No salen las flotas a La Paz, Oruro y Potosí. Los bloqueos se acentúan en Confital.
Decenas de pasajeros permanecen desde el pasado lunes parados en Cochabamba, debido a que la ruta interdepartamental a Oruro, La Paz y Potosí, se encuentra bloqueada por trabajadores cooperativistas de Huanuni.
Aunque hasta ayer por la tarde continuaban saliendo algunos buses a Caihuasi -que une Cochabamba con Oruro- la medida de presión se radicalizó y los bloqueos se trasladaron hasta la zona de Confital, perjudicando la salida de al menos cinco empresas.
Así lo informó el jefe de Tránsito Terminal, Rufo Andia quien explicó que una vez más al menos unas 150 a 200 personas pasarán la noche en la Terminal de Buses mientras el problema se solucione.
“No podemos hacer nada, las flotas no salen ni llegan a Cochabamba, esto ha generado desesperación a muchas familias y delegaciones enteras que viajaban a La Paz, principalmente”, indicó.
Dijo también que aproximadamente a las 15:00 se suspendieron las salidas hacia Oruro, provocando malestar en los pasajeros que se quedaron en la ciudad.
Los trabajadores mineros se encuentran interrumpiendo el tráfico vehicular en la población orureña de Caracollo. Otro grupo numeroso de mineros está ubicado en la tranca de Caihuasi bloqueando la ruta entre Oruro y Cochabamba y por la tarde avanzaron hasta Confital.
Los mineros de este distrito reclaman incremento de salarios, militarización de sector de Cataricagua (ubicado al pie del cerro Posokoni, importante reservorio de estaño), inversión económica y autonomía de gestión para la Empresa Minera Huanuni, entre otras demandas.
Los trabajadores pretenden que los ingresos económicos que se generan por concepto de operaciones y la comercialización de minerales, sean reinvertidos en la misma empresa, dependiente de la Corporación Minera de Bolivia (Comibol).
Hasta el cierre de la presente edición, nada había cambiado, la ruta que comunica a Cochabamba con los departamentos del occidente continuaba bloqueaba y no se conocía de negociaciones o intentos de intervenir la medida.
Here´s what the paper says:
Los mineros sindicalizados de la Empresa Minera Huanuni, que bloquean la carretera entre Oruro, La Paz y Cochabamba a la altura de las poblaciones de Caracollo y Cayhuasi, rechazaron ayer el diálogo con la comisión de Gobierno, exigieron la presencia del vicepresidente Álvaro García Linera y decidieron mantener la medida.
Entretanto, en las terminales de buses los viajeros pasan dificultades por el retraso para trasladarse a sus destinos y reclamaron porque hasta el cierre de esta edición no había una solución al conflicto.
El ministro de Minería, Alberto Echazú, informó que junto al ministro de Trabajo Walter Delgadillo, el viceministro de Coordinación con Movimiento Sociales, Sacha Llorenti, y el presidente de la Corporación Minera de Bolivia (Comibol), Hugo Miranda, fueron a Oruro para dialogar con los dirigentes mineros y resolver los problemas planteados en el voto resolutivo del sector y así poder garantizar el uso de las carreteras.
La comisión gubernamental permaneció durante toda la jornada en ambientes de la Prefectura de ese departamento y a través de diferentes medios convocaron a los mineros al diálogo, pero hasta anoche los trabajadores no se hicieron presentes por la condición de la asistencia del Vicepresidente.
Ante esta demanda, Delgadillo explicó que la comisión fue organizada y delegada por las máximas autoridades de Gobierno y que contaban con la autoridad suficiente para negociar con el sector movilizado.
La movilización minera tiene como principal demanda el reconocimiento y promulgación del Decreto Supremo 28901 con rango de ley, para de esa forma garantizar la reversión de la empresa Huanuni a dominio del Estado boliviano. También exigen el desembolso inmediato de 10 millones de dólares de los recursos comprometidos por el Gobierno, en octubre del pasado año, para consolidar la reactivación de aquel distrito minero.
Diálogo
Echazú dijo estar sorprendido por la reacción de los mineros, ya que las negociaciones estaban avanzadas aunque la pasada semana no pudo hacerse presente en el distrito de Huanuni debido a que era parte de una comisión en negociaciones del tema de El Mutún con la empresa india Jindal.
Mediante una carta enviada anoche a los dirigentes mineros y a la Central de Obrera Departamental (COD), la comisión de Gobierno manifestó que las relaciones con los trabajadores es de alianza estratégica y por tanto están predispuestos al diálogo que esperan pueda concretarse hoy.
Entretanto los mineros continuaban los bloqueos en Caracollo en la ruta hacia La Paz y Caihuasi en el camino a Cochabamba provocando la suspensión de viajes hacia dichas ciudades. Además, las actividades de extracción de estaño en los yacimientos del Posokoni están paralizadas, confirmó el secretario ejecutivo del Sindicato de Trabajadores Mineros de Huanuni, Miguel Pérez.
Potosí está aislado
Debido a los conflictos de la Universidad Tomás Frías, la capital potosina y otras ciudades intermedias como Tupiza, Villazón, Uncía y Uyuni estarán hoy cercadas por los bloqueos que desde ayer se cumplen en demanda de la reanudación de actividades académicas en esa casa superior de estudios.
La medida de presión no sólo la llevan adelante docentes y estudiantes de estas cuatro subsedes que tiene la universidad potosina en las provincias, sino también los docentes y estudiantes que se autoproclaman "autonomistas" de la capital y que se plegaron a esa medida radical.
El director de Seguridad Ciudadana, Eduardo Rivera, confirmó que en el puente de San Antonio en el tramo Potosí-Tarapaya existe una fracción de estudiantes y docentes de la Tomás Frías que proceden al bloqueo de ese camino. En el Cruce de Ventilla no hay bloqueo, dijo.
Lo contrario ocurre en el trayecto Potosí-Sucre donde existen dos puntos de bloqueo en los cruces a las poblaciones de Mojotorillo y Quivincha, donde por lo menos, hay unas 150 personas que ejecutan esa medida de presión que en la jornada de ayer fue casi infranqueable.
Rivera indicó que en las rutas a las provincias del sur, específicamente cerca de Villazón, en el retén de Matancillas hay un punto de bloqueo y en Tupiza en dos sectores: en Palala y en los accesos de la ciudad en la zona norte.
Or this from the local paper in Cochabamba:
Decenas de pasajeros permanecen en la Terminal por los bloqueos en la vía a La Paz
Muchas familias piden ayuda para sus hijos, no tienen dinero para pagar sus alimentos y alojamiento. No salen las flotas a La Paz, Oruro y Potosí. Los bloqueos se acentúan en Confital.
Decenas de pasajeros permanecen desde el pasado lunes parados en Cochabamba, debido a que la ruta interdepartamental a Oruro, La Paz y Potosí, se encuentra bloqueada por trabajadores cooperativistas de Huanuni.
Aunque hasta ayer por la tarde continuaban saliendo algunos buses a Caihuasi -que une Cochabamba con Oruro- la medida de presión se radicalizó y los bloqueos se trasladaron hasta la zona de Confital, perjudicando la salida de al menos cinco empresas.
Así lo informó el jefe de Tránsito Terminal, Rufo Andia quien explicó que una vez más al menos unas 150 a 200 personas pasarán la noche en la Terminal de Buses mientras el problema se solucione.
“No podemos hacer nada, las flotas no salen ni llegan a Cochabamba, esto ha generado desesperación a muchas familias y delegaciones enteras que viajaban a La Paz, principalmente”, indicó.
Dijo también que aproximadamente a las 15:00 se suspendieron las salidas hacia Oruro, provocando malestar en los pasajeros que se quedaron en la ciudad.
Los trabajadores mineros se encuentran interrumpiendo el tráfico vehicular en la población orureña de Caracollo. Otro grupo numeroso de mineros está ubicado en la tranca de Caihuasi bloqueando la ruta entre Oruro y Cochabamba y por la tarde avanzaron hasta Confital.
Los mineros de este distrito reclaman incremento de salarios, militarización de sector de Cataricagua (ubicado al pie del cerro Posokoni, importante reservorio de estaño), inversión económica y autonomía de gestión para la Empresa Minera Huanuni, entre otras demandas.
Los trabajadores pretenden que los ingresos económicos que se generan por concepto de operaciones y la comercialización de minerales, sean reinvertidos en la misma empresa, dependiente de la Corporación Minera de Bolivia (Comibol).
Hasta el cierre de la presente edición, nada había cambiado, la ruta que comunica a Cochabamba con los departamentos del occidente continuaba bloqueaba y no se conocía de negociaciones o intentos de intervenir la medida.
Monday, 2 July 2007
In Dinosaurs Footsteps
After my visit to Amboro national park I returned to Santa Cruz and rested up a little, scratching my insect bitten legs and letting the flip flop injuries heal.
From Santa Cruz I headed on an overnight bus back towards the Andes and the city of Cochabamba.From here I wanted to travel to a remote Andean national park called Torotoro. I asked around in Cochabamba if they had any tours to this difficult to reach park. They did but at a high price, even if I could round up other travellers, not one had I seen. There are public buses to Torotoro, and I was in luck as they only leave a couple of times a week, and the next day, the Thursday had a departure at 6am. The guidebook said the journey was over atrocious roads and would take between 7 and 10 hours to cover the 130km.
I bought my ticket, just 1.5UKP. Backpack was hoisted up onto the roof of this battered old bus, and I took my seat. There was of crowd of ingigenous Bolivians surrounding the lady who sold my ticket. No one seemed to buy one. People would get on the bus, then they would get off again. People blocked the aisle, not moving out of the way, forcing other folk to push by, or even climb over the seats. I decided Bolivia was classic third world chaos!
At 6.30 the bus departed, packed to bursting with people and sacks of produce. The journey was long and very bouncy. We had one flat tire, two radiator overheatings, and two gear box troubles. All great opportunities for getting off the bus and admiring the wonderful Andean scenery. I was happy to be back in these colourful mountains. The journey took nine hours.
Torotoro national park is centered on the small village of Torotoro. It is a paleantologists heaven, as here slabs of ancient sediamentary rocks, driven high by tectonic forces, expose a huge concentration of sea fossils from 350 million years ago. Also across the park are exposed dinosaur tracks mad in mud that has now become mudstone.
I found two types of footprint, the first a three-toed biped (probably a meat eating veloraptor) plus the huge print of a quadripedal giant vegetarian beast similar to a diplodicus. Scientists estimate that these footprints were made 80 million years ago.
Torotoro park is a huge hanging valley high above a wider and deeper river valley (this river I crisscrossed many times on the bus ride). The high valley is cut everywhere by jeep canyons, formed either by the roofs of caves collaspsing or by the rapid downcutting of the rivers as the Andes rose. One particular canyon is close to the village and it was here I trekked on my first day.
Down on the canyons floor, after scrambling over many huge rocks, I reached a site where an underground river emerges from the canyon wall to form a seeries of waterfall cascades. The greenery here was dense and I saw many hummingbirds down here.
I was really happy to be here in a very traditional Bolivian village, miles from anywhere. The village is populated indigenous Quechuas. I was the only white face in town. The women here still wear traditional full pleated skirts, yet unlike the Quechuas of the higher altiplano, they do not wear bowler hats but white broad rimmed straw hats. They looked very summery as a result. The people are very quiet and reserved, certainly very different to the highly animated Spanish descendents. Each day they would huddle together, sat on the main streets kerbstone talking quietly, or even not at all. I am not comfortable with shoving a camera lens into peoples faces, so alas not pictures of these people here.
The next day I hiked south of the village. Either side of the valley folded rocks stood appropriately like Stegasaurus´spinal plates. I did my best to spot some fossilized sea creatures but could not find any.
The bus back to Cochabamba was on the Monday. The journey back was much quicker, no breakdowns! Today, 3rd July, I tried to get a bus up to La Paz, but Bolivia has done a Bolivia, and the road is blocked by some demostration. No doubt the police are firing tear gas cannisters, and rocks are being thrown as I type this in very little to do, and a little edgy, Cochabamba.
From Santa Cruz I headed on an overnight bus back towards the Andes and the city of Cochabamba.From here I wanted to travel to a remote Andean national park called Torotoro. I asked around in Cochabamba if they had any tours to this difficult to reach park. They did but at a high price, even if I could round up other travellers, not one had I seen. There are public buses to Torotoro, and I was in luck as they only leave a couple of times a week, and the next day, the Thursday had a departure at 6am. The guidebook said the journey was over atrocious roads and would take between 7 and 10 hours to cover the 130km.
I bought my ticket, just 1.5UKP. Backpack was hoisted up onto the roof of this battered old bus, and I took my seat. There was of crowd of ingigenous Bolivians surrounding the lady who sold my ticket. No one seemed to buy one. People would get on the bus, then they would get off again. People blocked the aisle, not moving out of the way, forcing other folk to push by, or even climb over the seats. I decided Bolivia was classic third world chaos!
At 6.30 the bus departed, packed to bursting with people and sacks of produce. The journey was long and very bouncy. We had one flat tire, two radiator overheatings, and two gear box troubles. All great opportunities for getting off the bus and admiring the wonderful Andean scenery. I was happy to be back in these colourful mountains. The journey took nine hours.
Torotoro national park is centered on the small village of Torotoro. It is a paleantologists heaven, as here slabs of ancient sediamentary rocks, driven high by tectonic forces, expose a huge concentration of sea fossils from 350 million years ago. Also across the park are exposed dinosaur tracks mad in mud that has now become mudstone.
I found two types of footprint, the first a three-toed biped (probably a meat eating veloraptor) plus the huge print of a quadripedal giant vegetarian beast similar to a diplodicus. Scientists estimate that these footprints were made 80 million years ago.
Torotoro park is a huge hanging valley high above a wider and deeper river valley (this river I crisscrossed many times on the bus ride). The high valley is cut everywhere by jeep canyons, formed either by the roofs of caves collaspsing or by the rapid downcutting of the rivers as the Andes rose. One particular canyon is close to the village and it was here I trekked on my first day.
Down on the canyons floor, after scrambling over many huge rocks, I reached a site where an underground river emerges from the canyon wall to form a seeries of waterfall cascades. The greenery here was dense and I saw many hummingbirds down here.
I was really happy to be here in a very traditional Bolivian village, miles from anywhere. The village is populated indigenous Quechuas. I was the only white face in town. The women here still wear traditional full pleated skirts, yet unlike the Quechuas of the higher altiplano, they do not wear bowler hats but white broad rimmed straw hats. They looked very summery as a result. The people are very quiet and reserved, certainly very different to the highly animated Spanish descendents. Each day they would huddle together, sat on the main streets kerbstone talking quietly, or even not at all. I am not comfortable with shoving a camera lens into peoples faces, so alas not pictures of these people here.
The next day I hiked south of the village. Either side of the valley folded rocks stood appropriately like Stegasaurus´spinal plates. I did my best to spot some fossilized sea creatures but could not find any.
The bus back to Cochabamba was on the Monday. The journey back was much quicker, no breakdowns! Today, 3rd July, I tried to get a bus up to La Paz, but Bolivia has done a Bolivia, and the road is blocked by some demostration. No doubt the police are firing tear gas cannisters, and rocks are being thrown as I type this in very little to do, and a little edgy, Cochabamba.
Saturday, 23 June 2007
Fish Food
Camping out in the jungle you get mighty sticky and sweaty. So being by the river each morning and evening I would take a dip to clean off and freshen up. This morning there I was swimming around when a small fish decided to take a bite of a highly personal and sensitive part. It's amazing how high you can jump evn just treading water. I did not go back into the water after that, the minnows here are nasty!
Today we climbed up high through the thick humid forest to get a glimpse of the sandstone ridges that form the basis of the park, together with the many river valleys that carve their way through them.
After climbing up high we went into a dark side gorge where a waterfall dropped down. It was like a green heaven, with the green moss covered walls.
The trek out of the park was again one needing lots of change of footwear as the river was crossed and re-crossed. There was one wildlife type that I did not want to see, but did. A rather large, and very poisonous snake. Fortunately it slide off away into the undergrowth, but I kept a careful watch as to where I put my feet after that encounter.
Today we climbed up high through the thick humid forest to get a glimpse of the sandstone ridges that form the basis of the park, together with the many river valleys that carve their way through them.
After climbing up high we went into a dark side gorge where a waterfall dropped down. It was like a green heaven, with the green moss covered walls.
The trek out of the park was again one needing lots of change of footwear as the river was crossed and re-crossed. There was one wildlife type that I did not want to see, but did. A rather large, and very poisonous snake. Fortunately it slide off away into the undergrowth, but I kept a careful watch as to where I put my feet after that encounter.
Flip flop trek
In the jungle you wake with the dawn and the birds. So many weird and haunting calls.
Today we trekked further up the river. As we would be crossing the river almost constantly I wore my flip flops. But these really started to cut my feet so I switched to my boots, knowing that eventually they would dry out.
It was hard going. Jumping from rock to rock, then wading through the waist deep river.
Sometines the river was in a rock cut canyon, sometimes hust at the base of a deep jungle clad valley.
Saw Puma tracks in the wet sand at one site, but really saw very little in terms of wildlife, with the exception of many fish and kingfishers taking advantage of their quantity. Most mammals here are nocturnal, and those that arent are hidden deep in the greenery. I did get a glimpse of a black spider monkey though.
That evening after dark the guide left some cooked vegetables near the camp. Later with our torches we saw eyes reflecting back. Medium sized mammals call Pachas had caught the smell of the vegetables and came out of the forrest to investigate.
Today we trekked further up the river. As we would be crossing the river almost constantly I wore my flip flops. But these really started to cut my feet so I switched to my boots, knowing that eventually they would dry out.
It was hard going. Jumping from rock to rock, then wading through the waist deep river.
Sometines the river was in a rock cut canyon, sometimes hust at the base of a deep jungle clad valley.
Saw Puma tracks in the wet sand at one site, but really saw very little in terms of wildlife, with the exception of many fish and kingfishers taking advantage of their quantity. Most mammals here are nocturnal, and those that arent are hidden deep in the greenery. I did get a glimpse of a black spider monkey though.
That evening after dark the guide left some cooked vegetables near the camp. Later with our torches we saw eyes reflecting back. Medium sized mammals call Pachas had caught the smell of the vegetables and came out of the forrest to investigate.
Welcome to the jungle
I took the two hour bus trip from Santa Cruz to the small town of Buena Vista (sharing the bus with all sorts of agricultural produce). Arriving in the pleasant colonaded main square I sorted out my trip into the Amboro national park, a three day, two night camping and trekking adventure, which would begin the following morning.
Transport into the wilds was by 4WD accross rivers and steams.
Amboro national park is special because here amazon meets Andes foothills and the dry Chaco plain, all having distinct ecosystems. The area I went to was one of the high headwaters of the Amazon and covered in virgin rain forest.
From the jeep we trekked 4 hours into the jungle, following, and very often, walking in a broad river. As we walked deeper in the rivers course was very often in a deep canyon with hig red sandstone cliffs either side.
Amboro is famous for it's butterflies with more types being recorded here than in any other location. I think that may go for all insect types, particularly the biting ones, for even with my jungle strength insect repellent, they just seem to regard that as a personal inconvience.
Camp was set up under a sandstone overhang on a sandy river beach. Went to sleep listening to the sounds of the jungle.
Tuesday, 19 June 2007
The Death Train
From Bonito I travelled back to Campo Grande and said adios the the Aussies, who were headed on a mammoth 48 hour bus journey to the north eastern coastal city of Salvador. I then bussed to the Brasilian Bolivian border on the Rio Paraquay and crossed over.
Adeus Brasil, hola Bolivia.
I was very lucky as I was able to buy a ticket for the overnight train to Santa Cruz within an hour of its departure (guide book said this is tough to achieve!).
The train is known as the Death Train, and I can confirm it as the most uncomfortable train ride I have ever done. It runs on narrow gauge tracks, never acheives more that 40 to 50 mph, and bumps, rocks and jolts its passengers constantly. How I slept through this constant battering I do not know!
Santa Cruz is Bolivia's largest city, but still seems a pretty chilled out place. The hostel I stayed in has two pet toucans, who love to accept fruit from your breakfast plate. Did some shopping (new jeans to replace the ones that ripped and died) plus a good haircut.
Off now to Amboro national park. Couldnt get to Noel Kempff national park as planned as the heavy rains earlier this years have knocked out the road that accesses this remote area.
Adeus Brasil, hola Bolivia.
I was very lucky as I was able to buy a ticket for the overnight train to Santa Cruz within an hour of its departure (guide book said this is tough to achieve!).
The train is known as the Death Train, and I can confirm it as the most uncomfortable train ride I have ever done. It runs on narrow gauge tracks, never acheives more that 40 to 50 mph, and bumps, rocks and jolts its passengers constantly. How I slept through this constant battering I do not know!
Santa Cruz is Bolivia's largest city, but still seems a pretty chilled out place. The hostel I stayed in has two pet toucans, who love to accept fruit from your breakfast plate. Did some shopping (new jeans to replace the ones that ripped and died) plus a good haircut.
Off now to Amboro national park. Couldnt get to Noel Kempff national park as planned as the heavy rains earlier this years have knocked out the road that accesses this remote area.
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