From Salta it was an overnight bus over the scrubland waste that is the Chaco, to Corrientes on the Parana river. Arriving at first light I had three hours before my next bus would take me down to Mercedes in the northern Pampas - cattle country. Here I connected quickly with a tired old bus to take me the 120km north to the Ibera national park along a dirt track road.
Ibera is a wetland wilderness rich in wildlife and in particular birdlife.
For the next three nights I enjoyed boating on the lake, watching caimans watching me, disturbing Capybaras, horseriding, and reaquainting myself with the antics of howler monkeys.
I was the only tourist there. I loved the quiet, the being off the gringo trail for a while.